This morning brought a solid 2-3 foot swell to my local break, a sandy reef. I was out among a dozen surfers, the lone bodyboarder in the (just after) dawn patrol crowd. I should clarify a couple of points at the outset. First, I do not surf the chest-thumping, testosterone-heavy breaks that make the headlines for hooliganism and size. My …
Remembering
I spent the holiday weekend visiting family, and a central part of the experience was spending time with my 4 month old nephew. To hold a newborn as a parent of adolescents is to open a firehose onto your limbic system. The memories can overwhelm and leave you in a state of emotional diarrhea. My first morning back, I woke …